Compressie test gedaan

koud 100 95 95 95
koud met olie 105 98 99 98
warm 119 121 125
warm met olie 125 124 131 130

geeg gegeven voor warm zonder olie want was vergeten gas vol open te zetten.dit geld ook voor de koud testen.

ontsteking bijgesteld. Heb een otstekings lamp gekocht en timing gemeten. Timing was behoorlijk verkeerd (tientalle graden) timing weer ol 6 graden ingesteld en een test rit gemaakt. Merk niet veel verschil heb ool het TDC punt visueel gecontroleerd en de markeering op de poelie staat op TDC als de nr 1 cylinder bovenaan is.

Marielle en ik zijn begonnen met het vervangen van de bekleding van de stoelen. 3 halve stoelen zijn vernieuwd
Een week later zijn alle stoelen af.

Heb een paar onderdeeltjes voor het schakel mechanisme van de overdrive nieuw gemaakt. Alles werkt nu.

The fairy/superwinch overdrive repair manual.

Introducion.

I recently became the proud owner of a Land Rover Series II. One of the first things I wanted to do after I got the MOT(uk) (APK(nl)) was to make the Series II capable of driving on the highway ie. capable of speeds in access of 80 kpm.
I was stupid enough to buy a second hand (read cheap) superwinch overdirive. I knew I had to replace the clutch sleeve which is not to difficult. But on a closer look (after I bought it) I also had to replace the mainshaft and some bearings, so I had to take the whole thing appart. I searched the internet for a repair manual but could not find it so I had to figure out everything myselve.
Luckily my employer has a well equiped workshop so I think I m able to do the repair job myselve. I have, however no previous experience at car mechanics.
The manner in wich I took the overdive appart is one way of doing it but sertainly not the only way. I will try to and elaborate why I did it the way I did. If this manual is not complete or you have problems with taking your overdrive appart please email me at marcel@wijlaars.org

Internet information.

Make sure you get a copy of the overdrive manual (
fairyod.pdf or
Overdrive.pdf )

Parts

Bearings: Your local bearing shop
(6308,XRK304702)
Gears: LEGS (WWW.LEGS.CO.UK) or Rovers Down South (WWW.FAIREYOVERDRIVE.COM)

Tools

Circlip grip (large and small)
Plastic hammer
Hydrolic ram
electric paintstripper (Tmax < 350 C)
Bearing puller
Grip wrench
Piece of wood

Taking the overdrive appart (how I did it).

1. Remove the 4 M8 nuts (GHF213) and washers (WM108001) which hold the back cover.
2. Remove the back cover and the o-ring (RTC7166)
3. Remove the circlip (RTC7172) on the mainshaft (RTC7169) and remove the collar (RTC7190) which is held onto the mainshaft with the circlip.
4. Remove the next circlip (RTC7172) on the mainshaft (RTC7169) and remove the thrust bearing (RTC7186) which is held onto the mainshaft with the circlip.
5. Remove the mainshaft (RTC7169) via the front of the overdrive. A lot of bearings(RTC7185,RTC7186,RTC7188) and bushes are on the mainshaft (RTC7169) which now come off. Make sure you retreve all the bearings and bushes.
6. Remove the circlip (RTC7172)
7. Remove the ball bearing (1D3790) using a ballbearing puller (one that fits a 6308 type bearing, this number should be on the bearing). I made a construction out of a few pieces of M8 thread end (200mm long) and a 5mm think iron plate to support a shaft which supported the bearing puller so I could pull the ball bearing (1D3790) out of the back of the aluminum housing. However I know that some peaople solve this job using a plastic hammer and a piece of wood.
   The ball bearing (1D3790) may also come out if you hear up the aluminum housing with an electric paintstripper. The tight fit of the bearing is a result of dirt or rust between the bearing an the aluminum housing (at least in my case). When putting in a new bearing you dont need a hydrolic ram to put the bearing in place, only gently heat up the aluminum housing with an electric paint stripper
8. Remove the layshaft (RTC7194) using a grip wrench. A number of bearings (RTC7184) and the laygear (RTC7192)will come out of the aluminum housing.
9. Remove the output gearshaft (RTC7176).
10. remove the main front roller bearing (RTC7179) and the oil seal (RTC7173) using a hydrolic pres (ram).
11. Clean all the parts, check the bearings for wear, and put back in reverse order

Taking the overdrive appart (looking back,how I think is should (or could) be done ).

6. The first 6 steps are the same as above.
7. Remove the layshaft (RTC7194) usig a grip wrench. A number of bearings (RTC7184) and the laygear (RTC7192) wil be loose in the aluminum housing.
8. Remove the output gearshaft (RTC7176), after this all the other gears, synchro stuff (RTC7192, 561392, 571936) and vaious bearings, shims etc. (RTC7184,RTC7193, RTC7189,503805, 52459, 553084) can come out of the aluminum housing. Make sure you retreve all the parts
9. Heat up the aluminum housing using an electric paintstripper and remove the ball bearing (1D3790) using a plastic hammer an a piece of wood.
10. Heat up the aluminum housing using an electric paintstripper and remove the front roller bearing (RTC7179) and the oil seal (RTC7173)using a plastic hammer an a piece of wood.
11. Clean all the parts, check the bearings for wear, and put back in reverse order

Heb de overdrive eindelijk gerepareerd en geinstalleerd. Heb alleen wat problemen gehad met de borgring die de moer op z n plek moet houden. De lippen die hieraan zitten zitten de overdrive in de weg bij het plaatsen. De lippen moeten omgebogen worden voordat de overdrive geplaatst kan worden.